Camera Gear

JPEG VS RAW

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Is there still a debate about JPEG vs raw? For the serious enthusiast, using your camera’s raw setting should be a no-brainer. Here’s why.

JPEG files are 8 bit and raw files are 14 bit (or more likely these days 16 bit). To keep the numbers manageable I will stay with 14 bit. Bits translate to tonal values, so an 8 bit file has 256 tonal steps from black to white while a 14 bit file has 16,348 steps. 

This is important when manipulating images in Photoshop or Lightroom. For example if you are working on colour and luminance in a sky, or trying to bring out detail in the shadow areas of an image, you are working with a limited range of the total number of bits. With a JPEG you might be working with say one fifth of the total number, say 50 bits. So if you “push” those areas the sky will show unsightly bands or break up into blocks of colour. In the case of the raw file you will be working with more than 3,000 bits and the colour and tonal transitions will be seamless to the eye. Other compromises result from using JPEGs and these are shown in the table.

It is true that for some purposes there are advantages in using JPEG format but for anyone who wants to enhance an image in software with the aim of creating a large, quality print, those advantages are not relevant.

In the 4X enlarged example below the camera was set to shoot JPEG + raw at 1/1250, f4, ISO 100. Both images were processed the same in Lr by clicking on Auto in the Basic panel and using the White Balance colour picker on the white coffee sign.

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The JPEG file did not have enough data (bits) to handle the “stretching” required and it broke up into ugly colour blotches. The raw file was able to handle the “stretch” and seamlessly revealed subtle tonal gradations in a very dark area of the image. (Not well reproduced here.)

Why is this? Well, as already explained, it has to do with the number of bits. More particularly, every digital imaging device makes a raw file, even cameras and old point and shoots that would only produce JPEGs. The camera has software built in that examines the raw file produced by the sensor, makes adjustments to brightness, contrast, colour, saturation, sharpness and goodness know what else, then spits out the JPEG. 

The JPEG image is created from a subset of the raw data collected by the sensor. It deletes what it didn’t use and then compresses the file down to 8 bits. The result is that if you edit a JPEG your image editing program goes looking for extra data, can’t find it and the blocky artefacts are the result.

So, given that most of us spend as much money as we deem reasonable on a camera, the heart of which is the digital sensor, why would you then shoot JPEGs which chuck away 60-95% of the data gathered by that expensive miracle of a sensor?

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The un-cropped images above show the final comparison between the straight out of camera JPEG and the processed raw file. This scene was chosen, not for its aesthetics, but for the extreme lighting conditions - a back-lit black van.

Rethinking camera equipment

The temptation to aspire to the newest highly rated gear is strong. There are many technical reviews readily available on the 'net. Some are by experts working in well equipped laboratories, others include self-appointed gear heads, pixel peepers and people with ulterior motives. It's easy to get caught up in the numbers …

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Ever changing digital Camera gear

My first 'real' camera was a Nikon Nikkormat ftn 35mm SLR with a 50mm lens. I shot thousands of slides with it and some black and white film before getting a 28mm lens and discovering the compositional joys that wide angle can give. It wasn't until 2004 that I bought another camera, the Minolta DiMAGE Z3.

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Minolta DiMAGE Z3

3.3 MP 1/2.7" CCD sensor, fixed lens 10x zoom 38-380mm FF equivalent, ISO who knows?

My first digital camera. I thought a 'super zoom' would be a great convenience so this was recommended by the camera shop. It was  a really enjoyable camera to use. (In that regard it makes me think about the Sony A6000). But the EVF was awful and plastic bits kept breaking off. Never the less, some images were OK.

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Konica Minolta Dynax 7D

6.3 MP, APS-C CCD sensor, ISO 100-1600, pentaprism view finder, 2.5" 207,000 pixel LCD non-articulated screen.

This choice was based upon the analog controls - knobs, buttons and dials which meant I could adjust most settings  without having to dig into the menu system.

Not long after purchasing the camera, Konica Minolta went out of business and their assets were purchased by Sony.

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Sony A700

12.4 MP, APS-C CMOS sensor, ISO 100-1600, pentaprism view finder, 3" 320,000 pixel non-articulated LCD screen

At the time this was Sony's top of the line camera. It still had Minolta DNA but many of the knobs and buttons were gone, the ergonomics were much improved and it had twice as many pixels and a 3" screen. The camera had a nice feel and the images were visibly better so I was happy with the upgrade.

I had reservations about Sony's commitment to the DSLR market but reports I read at the time indicated that they were serious about elbowing their way into that market so I decided to stay with Sony. (in hindsight I don't think many understood just how serious they were about challenging the major brands).

The A700 developed a fault that caused shading along the edge of images. At the time the departure date for a trip to the USA was near and I had to make a decision, send the camera for repair or upgrade. The upgrade idea had a certain attraction so I ordered a Sony A7 full frame that had just been released. As the departure date moved closer calls to the camera dealer resulted in reassurances that it 'should' arrive in time. It didn't arrive, so two days before departure I bought another Sony camera, the recent released A6000. I didn't cancel the order for the A7.

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Sony A6000

24 MP APS-C CMOS sensor, ISO 100-25,600, electronic 1,440,000 pixel view finder, 3" tilting LCD screen

This little camera was a revelation. With the kit lens it was easy to carry in the hand for prolonged periods. It was inconspicuous and I quickly learnt the controls, operating them by touch much of the time. The ability to review images in the EVF at 100% magnification is an excellent feature as is the fact that the EVF presents a constant live view that reflects the camera settings - got the wrong white balance or exposure? No problem, it shows in the view finder. For my big hands the controls are a little fiddle but I see that as a fair tradeoff for the convenience of the light weight.

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Sony A7

24 MP full frame CMOS sensor, ISO 100-25,600, electronic 2,359,000 pixel view finder, 3" tilting LCD screen

The A7 was collected after my return from the USA. It has the same megapixel count as the A6000 but other measures are better, in particular ISO performance and dynamic range. For this reason it became my goto camera but I found that processed images from the A7 and A6000 were indistinguishable. The theoretically higher performance of the A7 is insignificant in every day use. According to the pundits, Sony's A6k range are the best performingAPS-C cameras available at this time so I am happy to have both.

In April 2018, I am considering my range of cameras and lenses. The lenses are the main problem, being a variety of Sony A, E and FE mounts, Minolta A mount and a Voigtlander FE. I have a Sony LAEA4 A-mount to E-mount lens adapter for the A-mount lenses. This was useful before Sony and others had created a broad range of E-mount lenses but now it and the older lenses can be replaced with quality lenses specifically made for the mirrorless E-mount system.